Here's how I understand it:
Throughout the entire trip, Dr. Gonzo and Duke have been on a tear, going wild, frightening people, ripping hotels off, and so on, but they've managed to keep it fun for themselves.
Eventually -- just as the 60s ended and all the acid freaks had to confront reality -- the high wears off and the ugliness of the world becomes impossible to ignore. This greasy-spoon diner is way off the main drag with its colored lights. Gonzo and Duke have hit the end of the road, the come-down, the hangover.
Dr. Gonzo wants to stir up trouble. Now this no longer seems amusing, it's no longer fun. It's mean and scary. And maybe the whole trip was mean and scary all along in some sense... but only now are we, the viewer, seeing their behavior from the perspective of an outsider who we can actually empathize with. So instead of all the "other people" seeming like grotesque reptilian monsters, Dr. Gonzo now seems pretty nasty himself.
Duke witnesses this and does not want to be a part of it. He doesn't intervene, either, because his loyalties are still to his friend. But he knows that their time is basically up now. The party is over.
And sure, they have a few more wild, fun times, like trying to get to the airport. But that's just one last hurrah before the story ends. They know they can't go on anymore like they have been. It's time to pack up and go back to reality.
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