Why do they have a turn around time? Is it because of the oxygen issue? Couldn't they wear bigger tanks or two of them?
As I understand it, oxygen is only part of the reason. They have a turnaround time because of the danger of being in the "death zone" above about 26 000 ft, because the human body is essentially dying the entire time it is there. With a camp at the South Col, climbers are essentially spending more than 24 hours in the death zone, but its effects are ameliorated by the use of supplemental oxygen from the time they get to the South Col and beyond.
Besides the lack of oxygen, the risk of permanent brain damage, stroke, heart failure, and general collapse increases exponentially. See this article for effects of being in the Death Zone:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Effects_of_high_altitude_on_humansThe oxygen tanks are very heavy, hence the strategy of leaving them along the way to use when needed. Some climbers don't use supplemental oxygen at all, but in those cases they need to be fast going up and down the mountain. This is very risky now because of the long lineups in places like the Hillary Step. You can't go fast if there are 150 people lined up ahead of you and only one at a time can ascend the step.
If people use oxygen, they can adjust its rate of flow and yes, they can remove their mask long enough to talk. They just need to be using that oxygen regularly as they ascend and descend.
Another important reason for a turnaround time is to prevent descents in the dark, where it is far more difficult to find safe footing, the climber is already tired and hypoxic, and much more likely to have a fatal event. Most deaths on Everest occur on the descent (as in this film).
What is the difference between a sherpa and a guide? Do the guides pay the sherpa's to help out or do they have their own groups they take up?
Sherpas are an indigenous ethnic group native to the high altitude Nepal and Tibet regions around Everest. They have their own language and customs, but genetically they are better adapted to high altitude work than western climbers. Their blood naturally has more hemoglobin and red blood cells and they are adapted to high altitude better than others from sea level.
Sherpas have traditionally been the workers of choice for Everest expeditions, going back to George Mallory in the 1920's, but as they have become better educated, learned English and trained, more have taken on positions of responsibility such as guiding and running touring companies. Most guides (and all of them in this film) are however western climbers with relevant background experience.
Guides have responsibilities towards specific clients, as a rule; they usually have Sherpa support. The Sherpa employees have a variety of responsibilities, ranging from assisting clients by carrying stuff, porter duties before the season opens (establishing camps, carrying equipment up the mountain); at base camp, they do food preparation. Many start as just porters or base camp workers and gradually move up. In most cases they have had little or no training in mountaineering skills; this is what the Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation is trying to address with the Khumbu Climbing School:
http://alexlowe.org/p/projects/item/1/the-khumbu-climbing-center.htmHere's a short video that's informative about the Sherpas:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihmfkdEcDykand a longer but very interesting documentary here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OaqZ4CyarcEdited to fix mistakes on links
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