MovieChat Forums > Riding Giants (2004) Discussion > I DON'T KNOW HOW TO SWIM

I DON'T KNOW HOW TO SWIM

posted 18 years ago by Replican49
6 replies | jump to latest

But I really, really wanna try-out surfin after having watched Step Into Liquid and Riding Giants. So how good of a swimmer do you have to be in order to paddle out in to those 2-6 foot waves and actually be able to ride them? I know there's a steep learning curve to surfing, even though they make it look easy lol, so how difficult would it be for someone of my size (6'7' 280lbs.) to learn surfing? Most surfers I've seen out there are small and nimble, so I dunno if it's even possible for a big guy like me, lol. Please, enlighten me.

[–] MovieBro 18 years ago

I work in a Surf shop(Northern Monteray Bay,CA) and have been around and in the ocean my entire life.

1)You have to be a good swimmer.Have to be able to swim around nimbly for up to and or past three hours at a time during a session.Your first try you will probubly be out no more then a half hour to an hour or less.It takes some people years to really get the hang of it.So don't expect to be hanging ten or thrashing your first go.

2)You have to have pretty good ocean knowledge.The ocean is not a swimming pool.It has to be respected or it will kill you.(Not to scare you but its true.)Knowledge such as,never turn your back on the water(waves),watch the beach and surf before going out to the break to get your bearings and relax if your being held under or in trouble,if you freak out you will drown or come close to it because you will lose your breath.

3)You have to have knowledge of where you are and the coast.Because if you paddle out to a locals spot you will not leave happy.Also the knowledge of where to go out to,there are spots for beginners and spots for locals,pro's.

4)To start out since your a big guy,I suggest 9 foot and up.The longer the board the more stable it will be to learn to stand and catch the wave.You would probubly be more comfturbal on a 9'6.Just don't bump it on the way out.First go get a foamy or a softtop.If you get a traditional board your first go,eather you will be hurting or someone else will or their board will.

5)Surfing is huge nowadays and growing thanks to it being mainstream.So their are tons of kooks in the water getting in everyones way.There is an ettiquete to surfing.To put it in laments turns:Do not paddle in the way of people paddling for waves when you are heading back to the line up.The person furthest in the inside has the right of way.If you do wipe out HOLD ON TO YOUR BOARD so you do not run into fellow surfers and your fellow barneys.Since surfing is so crowded go to a place that will have less people to spread it out a bit.Plus the smaller the crowd the easyer it is to learn.

The Bottum Line:Anyone can learn to surf.Keep working at it.It's a great sport and truelly a spiritual experience.You get to zone out from the normal runnings on of your life and have fun riding swell and seeing sealife doing it's thing with no cares in the world.Plus theirs always the eye candy on the beach.The feeling of riding a set wave double your size.But theirs a darker side to surfing aswell.It's simple:Do not go out to a surf break thinking you own it.No doubt theres guys out there that have been surfing it for years and years from father to son yata yata yata.Have respect for your fellow surfer and elder and for the ocean environmnent.Especially with all the crowds out there,people are and do get eggy or you may meet a new bro or babe out there.If you do not have respect well...

You will eather be taking a long walk to the beach while being yelled out or have a brawl out in the water.Surfing is a selfish sport and theirs plenty of localism.

Surfings is about having fun and being selfish cus that wave is yours.Theirs nothing like the stoke of riding a wave.I covered alot but not everything.Good luck bro.

Check out this book too:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1884654126/sr=8-8/qid=1147597229/ref=pd_bbs_8/104-5982475-0723100?%5Fencoding=UTF8

"I happen to have no dress in my cabin."
Are you suggesting coconuts migrate?

[–] matthew-winslade 18 years ago

I took up surfing two years ago (so not exactly a pro but remember what it takes to start out)and you really need to be a strong swimmer with plenty of stamina. The ocean can be quite an unforgiving place with strong currents and rip tides. Not to mention you actually have to battle out past the waves before you can even think about catching one.

I would highly recommend you learn how to swim well before even trying. It is also important you have good upper body strength. In particular you should make sure you can do plenty of push ups as this will aid you when you start trying to stand up.

As a large guy it means you will simply require a larger board. There are plenty of web sites out there that can offer you more advice. Just do a search and you should turn up plenty.

[–] MrBigglesworth999 18 years ago

I agree with the previous posters about getting some fitness first.

Also, when you are ready for the water, find a Surf School. Group lessons cater from 8 - 80 years age groups (I learnt when I was 47) and all levels of fitness and size. They guarantee that you will stand up on your first lesson and can also recommend a board for you. A good school will also teach you surf etiquette.

[–] dust-7 17 years ago

I'm not a surfer. But wouldn't rule #1 be that you should be able to hold your breath underwater for more than say 15 seconds? or even 45 seconds? particularly if you are thrashing around, or potentially getting pinned under. I don't see anyone here mentioning - you have to be able to hold your breath a really long time. Huge lung capacity in other words. That will x-out a lot of people. And two, isn't 'etiquette' that if another surfer gets onto the wave before you do, right next to you, that you are supposed to clear out of his way, even if it means going into the most dangerous part of the wave and potentially getting killed yourself? Or would any such 'surf advice' just be utter nonsense?

[–] SmallYeti 16 years ago

Just wondered whether Replican49 ever managed to get going on this.

I thought it may help to say that I learnt to swim at 24 as I wanted to learn to surf. I taught myself and practised loads and loads until I got to be a good swimmer and then I took myself off to surf school. Best decision ever - you will not regret it, there really is nothing like it for feeling free and alive.

One tip I would give you is to maybe practise some yoga. Whilst this may sound a little bit hippyish it helped me no end with my balance, stamina and lung capacity.

If you want to go and surf please don't let anything stop you, even being unable to swim. I live in the middle of the UK for goodness sake, nowhere near a beach and even then the water would be way too freezing most of the year. If I can do it then you can too.

The second poster made some really good points!

[–] dalton_industries 14 years ago

If you live in the UK there is a HUGE surf community based in Cornwall, in southern England (No lie!) I was in the town of Truro a couple of years ago touring with my band and was shocked to hear the locals talk of the awesome breaks hitting the towns around Penzance and The Lizard.

I'm from California and grew up surfing and it was the last thing I expected to see happening in England. But it was there. And the surfers were on the same vibe as anybody that comes from a surfing community. They mentioned surfing in wetsuits that had a 4/3 or 5/4 mm thickness because of the cold.

here's one link to check out:
http://www.cornwalls.co.uk/sports_and_activities/surfing/in-Truro.htm