Let me begin by saying that I respect and understand your opinion. It's a pity we should still begin by establishing that we are adults (as if younger people couldn't understand or appreciate art when they see it), and that we watch and love a lot of (almost objectively) good movies.
The way I remember the first scene was that I loved it, primarily because of the beauty of it, the depth of the shot, the way the camera moved, following the action, even when some buildings blocked the view, and the way the animals moved, seemingly unguided by human touch.
It also sets the stage very nicely. It shows you around the village, introduces you to the decay, the mud, the filth of it. It makes you wonder who would want to live there, and how animal life can exist there. As to the meaning of it, I have no idea. Maybe the cows leaving the stables and the square were foreboding the exodus of the human population from the village.
I wholeheartedly agree with you on the money counting scene though. All in all I think that most of the long scenes (together with the repetitive sounds and music) helped in creating a kind of hypnotizing atmosphere, almost trance-inducing, which worked for me. I especially liked the dance scene in the bar, the walking scenes of Irimiás, Petrina and the other young fellow through the street as the wind blew from behind them. I guess the movie was more about setting a mood than telling a fantastic story. It was different, and beautiful to look at, something to praise especially since the things that were shown were almost all dirty, ugly, ramshackle and ruinous.
If this was just a director's exercise in making a long movie, at least I think he passed.
Enough said!
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