BroV --
As Charlie Hume once remarked in an episode of "Lou Grant," "You know, it's a funny thing, but you can still find a lot of the old Los Angeles peeking out from between the new stuff . . ." (probably slightly paraphrased). And actually, it's quite true, although I agree with you that the town's probably done more (probably since its earliest days) to destroy its own history than just about any other locale. Los Angeles was settled by -- and built by -- people who were desperate to "reinvent" themselves. Whether their attitude just carried over, or whether there was something to the area that already nurtured that attitude, or maybe whether it's just a case of like attracting like, the place has never stopped reinventing itself since the earliest days.
What amazes me, as per the quote above, is the fact that the old Hotel Rosslyn still stands (in somewhat seedy grandeur) in the middle of all that prime downtown real estate. (Yeah, sure, the area's a skid row, but that's never stopped a determined developer yet.) And, for that matter, it's not alone. Despite the archdiocese's best efforts, there's a push to save the old St. Vibiana's (which shows up in the novel version of "True Confessions" quite a bit), and -- as you say -- attitudes do seem to be changing.
Your reference to "Double Indemnity" reminds me of the (recent) history they had to recreate for the film, shot as it was in 1943/44 but taking place in 1939. Because of wartime food shortages that had left most shelves bare, they had to "stock" a nearby market (just down Melrose from Paramount's location) and protect that stock with armed guards during the filming of Walter and Phyllis' clandestine meeting. Like you, by the way, I cherish that film's location work. (Had Sunday brunch just last month at the Olvera Street restaurant to which Walter escorted Phyllis' stepdaughter, as a matter of fact.)
Getting back to the novel (and with a bit of a "spoiler"), John Gregory Dunne does a pretty good job of recreating 1947 L.A. for the most part, but then (and this, to me, is pretty dumb for a guy who started in journalism and should have researched a bit better) he blows it with a scene set in MacArthur Park (which was still Westside Park at that time). I've always gotten a laugh over that gaffe.
-- Paul
(who was born and lives in San Francisco, but has always regarded L.A. as his "adopted" hometown)
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